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What is Pyrography?

Pyrography is the ancient art of burning a design onto a suitable surface by hand. Often, this tends to be wood, but pyrography can also be used to burn onto other materials such as leather, paper, gourds and bone.

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Pyrography is not to be confused with Laser burning/engraving. Pyrography is an art form producing one of a kind works whose results rely entirely on the skill, knowledge and imagination of the artist. Where-as Laser burning is a method used to create cheaper mass produced pieces where uniformity across batches is important and artistic skill is not necessarily a factor, as designs can be purchased online to download and use. Most often seen in food boards, coasters, keyring etc.

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Though the items we burn on have remained pretty much the same since humanity first discovered pyrography, the tools we burn with have changed considerably. Going from wood and metal pokers heated in a fire, to highly specialised machines with changeable shaped tips, multiple pen attachments and variable temperature controls.

With the expansion of interest in this art form there are now a plethora of available pre-made shapes and items to burn on as well as pieces of wood and plywood, making it a great craft for anyone to have a go and create something decorative and/or useful. But be warned, Pyrography is incredibly addictive!

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In my own art I prefer to use natural pieces of wood, this is because for me the important aspect of pyrography is that direct connection with nature and the woods I am using.

Razertip Pyrography Machine

My Razertip Machine.

The workhorse

Pyrography pen tips
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The Process

As with so many things in life, in pyrography the quality of the outcome really does depend on the quality of the preparation work. It takes time sourcing just the right pieces of wood to work with before sanding to a perfectly smooth finish for burning onto.

Once the surface is well prepared a design can be drawn in pencil on to the wood. It is also possible to transfer a pre drawn design. I use both methods, depending on the complexity of the design and whether I am taking something from my sketch book or just going with the flow and seeing what the piece of wood feels it should have on it.

 

Next is the best bit, the actual burning. 

This is the most time-consuming part, with some pieces taking well over 100 hours to complete. Burning is a gradual process of building the image and cannot be rushed. Though it is slow it is also incredibly relaxing and meditative.

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Once completed it is important to protect and nourish the wood correctly so it can look beautiful for many years to come.​

There are a whole range of finishing products available for different circumstances i.e. if the item is for food, use a food safe mineral oil, where as if I’ve burned a house sign and the wood will be outdoors in all weathers, a Yacht varnish might be the most suitable.

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The finishing products on my pieces are Vegan friendly e.g. organic mineral oil, linseed oil etc, unless otherwise stated e.g. bees wax

Sourcing The Wood

I use wood of many varying shapes and sizes, depending on what I am creating.

All my wands and jewellery and mobiles are made from wood I have foraged myself, either on walks in the beautiful Wiltshire countryside from recently fallen trees and pieces that make their own magical way to me, or during my gardening works from trees and shrubs in my care that I work with every week of the year. Always taking only what is freely given.

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The larger pieces of wood which are used for art pieces, crystal grids and serving boards are all sourced from other small UK based businesses. The wood is produced through sustainable and necessary woodland/tree management.

Caring for your Pyrography Art
  • Do not display in direct sunlight. Sun will cause the wood to change colour and the design will begin to fade over time. The darker the burn the more resistant it will be to fading.

  • Do not immerse in water. instead, wipe clean with a damp cloth and avoid using anything too abrasive.

  • Chopping boards will need a light re-oiling every so often, depending on use. Use a food safe mineral oil and lint free cloth to apply a thin coat.

  • Pieces with a live/waney edge. It is not uncommon for small pieces of bark to fall away over time, as the wood expands and contracts. To help avoid this, display 'bark on' pieces away from sources of heat or where there are large temperature changes.

  • When chopping on boards, try to avoid cutting directly over the pyrography design, to help maintain its look.

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If you are unsure of anything, please contact me to discuss.

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